Build a kit cubby house

Thursday, December 27, 2012
Build a kit cubby house

Time:

Weekend +

Difficulty:

Advanced

Materials

Timber - Treated Pine

  • 90 x 90 - 4/1.8; 3/1.5 (Posts)
  • 90 x 45 - 1/2.7; 22/1.8; 1/1.2 (Floor Joists, rafters, wall plates, hand rails, door posts)
  • 90 x 35 - 1/3.3; 2/2.1 (Floor joists verandah, gable studs)
  • 70 x 35 - 6/3.0 (Wall studs)
  • 45 x 35 - 2/1.8 (Roof battens)
  • 140 x 18 - 1/1.8 (Ridge)
  • 90 x 22 - 25/1.8 (Decking)

Weathertex

  • 32 lengths 1195 x 240. These will be shingles for the roof.
  • 5 lengths 3660 x 200 Ruff-Sawn for gable ends
  • 11 lengths 3660 x 170 Federation Ruff-Sawn Primelok for walls
  • 2 lengths 3660 Starter strip
  • 16 shingle joiners

Hardware

  • 7/150 x 9mm galvanised cuphead bolts, nuts and washers
  • Nails (galvanised) as follows:
  • 100 x 3.5mm Flat Head
  • 75 x 3.5mm Jolt Head
  • 50 x 2.8mm Weathertex Nails
  • 50 x 2.8mm Flat Head (Fixing Primelok W/Tex)
  • 65 x 3.15mm Helical Thread (Decking)
  • PVC Angle 50 x 50 - 1 length 1880mm
  • Paint - undercoat and top coat as required

Tools

  • Saw
  • Carpenters Mitre square
  • Hammer and Nail Punch
  • Electric drill and bits
  • String line and level
  • Level
  • Chisel

Build a kit cubby

Make sure you check with your council about any regulations before you tackle a job like this and it might pay to give a mate a call, because you may need a hand. This cubby is designed to be erected on a level area with the posts embedded in the ground. If the ground is not level then you'll need to dig holes at different depths or use varying lengths of posts. Another option is to have the posts above the ground sitting in galvanised saddles that are concreted into the ground.

Step 1

Set out the position of the posts with string line or pegs, keeping the pegs well clear to allow digging of the holes. Check the diagonal measurements are equal to ensure layout is square(diag.1). Dig holes about 300mm x 300mm and 300mm deep.

Step 2

Posts: 90mm x 90mm, cut four @ 1700mm and 3 @ 1400mm. Note that this is for level ground and allows 500mm to the top of the floor. Use longer posts to offset sloping ground or different floor height. Bevel the edges to eliminate sharp edges. It is a good idea to treat the bottom 300mm of the posts with creosote or similar water repellent fungicidal material. Install posts in holes, keeping vertical and in position with temporary braces. The four corner posts under the roof area should be the same level. The three verandah posts will be 300mm lower and also level (diag.2). Additional bracing from post to post will help to hold posts secure. Fill holes with quick-setting concrete or ordinary concrete and allow two days to set before proceeding.

Step 3

Floor joists (diag.1): 90mm x 45mm cut 2 @ 1760mm (back and middle) cut 1 @ 1730mm (front verandah) cut 5 @ 1530mm (inside) 90mm x 35mm cut 2 @ 610mm (verandah between posts) cut 3 @ 655mm (verandah) Position back joist 20mm inside the post edge and 900mm from the top of the post. Secure with 75mm nails keeping clear of the centre to allow drilling a bolt hole. Repeat this for the middle joist. Drill bolt holes and fasten joists to posts with bolts, nuts and washers. Position and secure the front verandah joist 35mm inside the post edge and 600mm from the top of the post. Secure with nails and bolts into the three front posts (NOTE: position of joists in diag.1). Fix the five joists equally spaced and at the same level between the front and back walls. (NOTE: the outside joists line up with the inside of the posts.) Secure the joists with 100mm flat-head nails. Use galvanised metal corners at right angle joints to increase strength. Secure the two outside verandah joists (610mm) between posts at the same floor level. Secure the other three joists (655mm) at equal spacing.

Step 4

Top wall plates: 90mm x 45mm cut 4 @ 1800mm and mitre cut each end. Secure the mitred top plates on the top ends of the posts keeping flush with the outside and mitre cut inside across the post. Use 100mm flat-head nails.

Step 5

Wall studs: 70mm x 35mm cut 14 @ 990mm, cut 4 @ 900mm (located on top of the joists against corner posts on the side walls) Nail wall studs into position (diag.2). Each stud is fixed to the outside of the floor joist and under the top wall plate. The end studs are nailed into the posts flush with the inside. NOTE: The outside edge of the stud finishes 20mm inside the posts and this allows the Weathertex cladding to finish level with the corner posts. Cut door post 90mm x 45mm - cut 1 @ 990mm. Position and secure in line with left hand side of centre verandah post (diag.2).

Step 6

Hand rails: 90 x 45mm cut 1 @ 700mm (square ends left hand side) cut 1 @ 700mm (one mitred end right hand side), cut 1 @ 945mm (one mitred end front rail). Fix with 10mm flat-head nails into the tops of the posts and skew nail into the sides of the posts (diag.3).

Step 7

Flooring: 90mm x 22mm. Cut floorboards (decking) to length. Verandah 1800mm and inside 1750mm. Loosely fit the flooring before nailing and allow approximately a 5mm gap between the boards. Cut out around the posts and studs where required. The front board on the verandah projecting out 20mm beyond the joists improves the appearance. Secure with 65mm x 3.15mm helical thread Timberlok galvanised nails.

Step 8

Roof rafters: 90mm x 45mm cut 10 @ 1575mm mitred the same direction each end. Place the template at the bottom end, mark and cut. The cut out on top of the rafter is for the roof batten (45mm x 35mm) which protrudes out 10mm above the rafter to lift the bottom roof shingle. Secure the front and back rafters flush with the outside of the posts locating the bird's mouth cut-out over the top plate. Pre-drill the nail holes to prevent splitting. Rest the opposite rafters together at the ridge. Cut ridge (140mm x 18mm) to 1800mm in length. Place the ridge between the rafters, level with the top edge and nail through the ridge into the opposite rafter. Space out the remaining rafters (approximately 395mm between) and secure at the wall plate and ridge.

Step 9

Gable stud: 90mm x 45mm. Position three studs at each end. Check out for rafter and secure to rafter and the top wall plate (diag.3).

Step 10

Roof: Weathertex Roof Shingle. NOTE: The shingle length is 1195mm, so each shingle needs to be joined with a special plastic joiner. Secure the roof battens (45mm x 35mm - 2 @ 1800mm) into the recess cut out on the top edge of rafters. Shingles need to be cut at different lengths for alternate rows so that the notches end up in the centre of the shingle below. Cut the shingles as below: a) Position the first shingle (left-hand side 1170) 40mm past the outside of the gable rafter and 40mm overhang past roof batten. The other end of the shingle has a rebated end to accommodate the 6mm plastic joiner. Fit plastic joiner on end and place the next shingle (710mm) into the plastic joiner and tack in position. (The end should be 40mm past the rafter.) b) Set out spacing for the next seven rows approximately 200mm apart which will give a 40mm overlap. c) For the second row place left-hand shingle (790mm) on top of the first row to the 200mm mark and end level with the first shingle (i.e. 40mm past the gable rafter). Join the second shingle (1090mm) similar to the first row. d) Nail through the lap of both the shingles into the rafters and along the roof batten on the bottom row (Use 50mm x 2.8mm Weathertex nails.) e) Continue this process to the top of the ridge then repeat on the other side. f) Cut and secure 50mm x 50mm PVC angle over the shingles at the ridge.

Step 11

Wall cladding: Weathertex Primelok - Federation Ruff-Sawn, 11 lengths - 3660mm x 170mm. Primelok Galvanised Starter Strip - 2 lengths 3660mm Mark 60mm up from the bottom of each wall stud. Cut the metal starter strip to fit between the posts. Secure into the studs with 40mm flat-head galvanised nails. Cut Weathertex planks to fit between the posts. Position the first plank so that the spline locks over the starter strip. Press the plank down into the strip and fasten (50mm x 2.8 flat-head galvanised nails) along the top edge of the plank into each stud. Keep nails 15mm from the top edge. Simply place the second plank so the spline locks over the splayed top edge of the first plank and fasten. (Five planks per side, seven planks front and back). Seventh plank cut to fit under the top plate at the back and half the front wall. Front wall (half only, as other half is doorway). Do not use starter strip. Cut the first plank level with the top of the side plank and fasten into the studs above the decking. The second plank will lock over the splayed top edge.

Step 12

Gable ends: Weathertex Ruff-Sawn, 5 lengths 3660mm x 200mm Secure a strip of Weathertex 45mm wide along the outside of the top plate flush with the bottom edge. (Cut strips from shingles or other plank offcuts.) Check the length of the first plank measuring along the bottom of the top plate to the top end of the rafter on both sides. NOTE: All plank ends are cut at 45 degrees. Fasten the first plank through the strip into the top wall plate. Align the bottom edge of the plank approximately 5mm below strip. Measure and cut the next plank allowing a 20mm overlap. Cut another plank the same length for the other end prior to fixing. Secure with Weathertex nails (50 x 2.8mm) flush with the plank surface and 12mm from the edge nailing through both planks. Continue to fill in the gable end.

Step 13

Painting: Shingles should be painted with an exterior 100% acrylic undercoat. The primed surface of Weathertex cladding on the walls and gable ends is suitable for the application of exterior 100% acrylic latex or solvent-borne paint systems. Timber can be painted with one of the timber stains or timber-coloured paints. Well, our finished product is a masterpiece. There is lots of room inside, plenty of light and ventilation, and it is as solid as a rock. Not to mention being pretty cute.
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